Sustainability is a concept often perceived as complex, but at its core, it's grounded in a straightforward question: Could we do this forever?
The answer is either yes or no. If we can grow a fibre, create a yarn, make a product, use it for an extended period, and eventually recycle or compost it without accumulating waste or causing harm, then it is sustainable. If not, adjustments are necessary to bring it into balance with nature and society.
In essence, sustainability is about designing systems and processes that operate in harmony with the environment and people. This principle transcends industries, from textiles to technology, challenging us to rethink how we produce, consume, and dispose of goods. So, let’s delve into what sustainability looks like in practice and explore whether it's truly achievable.
The Core of Sustainability: Balancing Systems and Accountability
The crux of sustainability lies in maintaining balance. It requires accountability at every stage, from production to disposal. For example, when evaluating yarn production, one must consider whether the fibre can be cultivated indefinitely, processed without excessive waste or pollution, and integrated into a supply chain that respects both environmental and social values.
However, globalisation complicates this balance. Local supply chains, where accountability is more transparent, have largely given way to fragmented international networks. This dispersion often leads to a lack of responsibility, making it harder to ensure sustainable practices. Addressing this challenge requires a concerted effort to apply sustainability principles to these global systems.
A Simple Premise, Complicated by Systems
At its heart, sustainability is simple: it's about doing what can be done forever. Yet, modern economic systems have added layers of complexity driven by profit motives. For instance, while useful, carbon accounting, certifications, and other measures are sometimes employed as justifications to continue unsustainable practices rather than as tools for genuine innovation. Simplifying and refocusing these systems can pave the way for real progress.
Beyond Materials: Social Sustainability Matters
Physical sustainability often dominates the conversation, emphasising fibres, biodegradability, and waste reduction. However, true sustainability encompasses social justice as well. If workers in the supply chain, like farmers, weavers, or factory workers, are underpaid or exploited, the system is inherently unsustainable. Exploitation leads to compromises in practices, undermining the very foundation of sustainability.
For a supply chain to be truly sustainable, it must prioritise fair wages, safe working conditions, and respect for all contributors. Even the most environmentally friendly materials cannot achieve sustainability without social equity.
Common Myths About Sustainability
Sustainability, despite its increasing prominence, needs to be more understood. Let's debunk a few common myths:
- Myth #1: Sustainability is only about the environment - Sustainability encompasses both environmental and social dimensions. Without addressing issues like fair labour practices and equitable resource distribution, efforts remain incomplete.
- Myth #2: Sustainable products are always expensive - While some sustainable options come at a premium, many practices, such as repairing items, repurposing materials, or buying second-hand, are cost-effective and eco-friendly.
- Myth #3: It's all or nothing - Sustainability isn't about perfection. Small changes, like reducing waste or supporting ethical brands, contribute to a more significant impact over time.
- Myth #4: Only big companies can make a difference - While systemic changes are crucial, individual and community actions, like choosing to mend clothes or shop locally, collectively drive significant progress.
Creativity in Craft: A Path to Sustainability
One of the most accessible avenues to sustainability lies in embracing creativity and resourcefulness. For makers, sustainability often begins at home—with the materials already in their stash. Instead of discarding leftover yarn or fabric scraps, these can be repurposed into new projects or combined in innovative ways.
Sustainability also involves rethinking how we approach repairs and alterations. For instance, rather than hiding a patch or repair, many crafters now use techniques like visible mending to transform flaws into features. Whether it's bold embroidery, decorative patchwork, or creative darning, these methods celebrate the life of a garment, extending its use while showcasing artistry.
This philosophy can be extended to design practices. Could a piece be created with disassembly in mind, allowing its components to be reused or repurposed? Crafters contribute to a more sustainable future by designing with longevity and adaptability.
Reuse, Mend, and Innovate
Sustainability is also about embracing a mindset of reuse and repair. In the crafting community, this can mean:
- Creative Mending: Transform a hole in a jumper into an opportunity for chunky embroidery or decorative patchwork, turning wear and tear into a design element.
- Stash Diving: Rediscover and repurpose materials already on hand, reducing the need for new purchases.
- New Crafts with Old Materials: Explore crafts that incorporate leftover materials, such as weaving scraps into wall hangings or knitting small projects with odds and ends.
By adopting these practices, makers not only reduce waste but also cultivate a deeper connection to their craft and materials.
The Future of Sustainability: A Shared Responsibility
Achieving sustainability is not solely the responsibility of corporations or governments. Individuals, communities, and grassroots movements are crucial in driving change. We can collectively move towards a more balanced system by advocating for ethical practices, supporting sustainable brands, and making conscious choices.
However, systemic changes are essential. This includes developing policies that incentivise sustainable practices, investing in technologies that reduce environmental impact, and fostering collaborations that prioritise transparency and fairness.
Can We Achieve Sustainability?
The answer depends on our willingness to adapt. Some practices, like using 100% synthetic materials with no safe disposal methods, clearly cannot continue indefinitely. In such cases, we must transition to alternatives that align with sustainability principles.
Other practices may require adjustments rather than complete overhauls. We can build systems that support long-term sustainability by adopting circular economy principles, designing products for reuse, and prioritising social and environmental justice.
Ultimately, sustainability is a journey rather than a destination. It's about making incremental changes, celebrating progress, and staying committed to the idea that we can do better—for ourselves, for others, and for the planet.
Sustainability is not an abstract ideal; it's a practical framework for living in harmony with our environment and each other. By asking the simple yet profound question, "Could we do this forever?" we can guide our actions towards a more sustainable future.
This article was written by Meriel Chamberlin of Full Circle Fibres and Nicky Crane of Thread Collective.